Used Car Review Proton M21 1998-2002 mister-cars.com

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» Home » Articles » Used Car Reviews » Add - Used Car Reviews » Proton M21 1998-2000

Proton M21 1998-2000

17/12/2007   By EWAN KENNEDY  
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Proton is closely allied with British sportscar maker Lotus so it comes as no surprise that the sporting models in the Proton range have had more success in Australia than the standard variants. The Proton M21 coupe is a classic example of how well the Malaysian car maker does in this field. When it first arrived in Australia in October 1997 it appeared to be just another pretty Asian coupe, but as soon as road testers began to get seriously about hammering the car they came away really impressed.

The M21 is heavily based on a Mitsubishi Lancer coupe, and therefore a cousin to the high-performance Evo range, though somewhat less hard edged than those full-on variants. Proton’s variant uses front-wheel drive, not all-wheel drive as in the Evo. Mitsubishi Australia did a similar model to the M21, but without the added engine power and improved suspension that’s such a feature of the Malaysian model.


Proton M21’s biggest attribute is excellent handling and it is one of the best front-drivers in the market, particularly in the affordable range. Turn-in is quick and precise, mid-corner corrections can be made without the coupe becoming temperamental and there’s plenty of road grip throughout the process. Everything is communicated to the driver in a most pleasant form.

The M21 is a two-door coupe with attractive looks and a decent-sized interior. So it can easily be used as a daily driver despite its hot performance. Indeed, it can almost be regarded as a two-door sedan rather than as a full coupe, because of the spacious rear compartment. Proton M21 features twin Recaro bucket seats that provide good support and reasonable comfort.

Ride comfort remains good except on rough roads as the firm suspension can knock it about a bit at times. On smooth, winding roads the little M21 is in its element and the feel and response from the steering and suspension are guaranteed to bring a smile to the faces of those who just love to drive.

Engine performance almost matches that of the ‘chassis’. It has nicely linear response all the way from 2000rpm to the redline and the dual exhaust pipes give out a raspy, sporting note. With 100 kW and 163 Nm the 1.8-litre, high-compression, twin-cam unit is exceptionally pleasant to sit behind.

Transmission is by way of a five-speed manual in most cars but some four-speed automatics are on offer. The automatic transmission works reasonably well but takes the edge off performance and unless you’re doing a lot of heavy-duty commuting driving we suggest going for the manual.

The hot Satria GTi, a close relative to the M21, joined the Proton range in October 1999 but didn’t supersede the M21, rather staying on in company with it. The Satria GTi is even more adventurous in its styling than the M21.

The M21 enjoys good resale value but is getting on in years so price will depend as much on condition as on age.

Protons haven’t been a big sales success in Australia to date but the company appears very determined to stay on our market and improve its position. It certainly isn’t sparing dollars to try and buy an improved market position.

Spare parts and servicing are available in most metropolitan areas but can be a problem in some country centres. Prices are about average and we have heard of no real troubles with availability.

A good home mechanic can do a lot of the routine service work but we recommend that only the professionals are allowed to touch the safety related areas.

Shop around for insurance as there can be quite a variance from one company to another. This is a sporty model so you will generally be asked to pay more than you would for standard Proton models. As always, when comparing rates from one company to another check the details so that you are balancing apples against apples.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR
This is a car that cries out to be driven hard so it pays to spend cash on a professional checkup. If you like, do your own initial walk-around and drive to weed out the obvious duds.

First look for body repairs: check for paint colours that don't match on adjacent panels; ripples in panels; out-of-sight parts that have been repaired roughly to cut costs; and tiny spots of paint on unpainted areas like glass and badges.

Do a good examination of the interior in case it has been knocked about by uncaring occupants. Look for signs of additional instruments having been added and then removed. Often the sign of a hot-four conversion and one that could have led to the M21 having been thrashed.

Check that the engine starts easily and immediately idles smoothly. If possible do the engine startup after it has been sitting overnight so it’s completely cold. Be sure the engine accelerates easily at all speeds and doesn’t puff smoke when the pedal is floored.

Gearchanges should be reasonably light and positive and there should be no crunching, even on the fastest of downchanges.

Without taking your foot from the accelerator quickly dip the clutch pedal and release it. The transmission should take up with a thump and not slip at all, slippage means the clutch is probably on the way out.

Braking hard should see the car stop quickly and evenly, with a gentle shudder through the ABS system. If it pulls to one side there could be severe brake wear.
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